Beginner’s 10 Easy Steps Strategy:

1. Reconnaissance – gathering information. First, I’d suggest you find out which your plants’ names actually are, if you don’t know them already. Internet and Google can help you a lot with this. It depends on the plant what kind of care it needs, and it may vary a lot between different plants. When you know the names, you will find information and instructions how take care of each plant.

2. Eliminating possible threats. Wash the leaves of plants and check for pests and diseases. If you think there is a problem, try to find out what it is and what would help. I’d first try simple search on the Net again, but shops are helpful in this – they will recommend and sell you the products you need.

3. Estimate the situation. Check if your plants need transplanting/repotting. If the plant is young and growing actively, it may need repotting – the larger and older the plant is, the bigger the chances are that it doesn’t need a new pot. Repotting is needed when the roots of the plant are starting to fill the pot and the plant needs more space for its roots and the soil around them. If you can see roots on the surface or there is not much soil in the pot, it definitely is time for repotting.

Use the information you found about your plants – plants that grow fast may need repotting annually, but slow-growing plants may require repotting every two or three years. Some plants like to stay at the same pot. However, if the plant is ailing or dormant, or beginning to flower, do not repot it. Repotting causes “stress” to the plant and might kill it.

4. Planning. Here you need the specific knowledge of each of your plants, because it depends on the plant which kind of soil and pot it needs. Usually, the all-purpose potting soil suits for the plants, but some plants like better special blends. Fleshy-rooted plants, such as Yucca, use a coarse-textured soil with fairly large particles of drainage material, and fine-rooted plants as begonias or many other smaller houseplants like fine-textured soilless mixes.

For the plants which you are going to repot, the new pot should be only 1-2 inches (2,5 – 5 cm) larger in diameter and depth than the pot in which it’s now. If the pot is too large, the soil may not dry down at a sufficient rate and then the roots will rot. For plants which need little water, such as cactus, a clay pot would be a good idea – for other plants you could pick a plastic pot. Drainage holes in the bottom of the pot are recommended, and then you’ll probably want to place a container (a plate will do) under the pot for excessive water, or you can hide the not-so-nice-looking plastic pot (or clay pot, too) in a little larger decorative cachepot. Plan which kind of decorative pots you’ll buy, so that you won’t be facing the need to change the whole decoration of the room to match the pot. Though, a little change there might be refreshing, too.

5. Gathering supplies. Get what you planned and check the sizes of the beautiful pots before buying so that they’ll fit for your plants. Buy also at least one extra little clay pot to use in the bottom of the pots (more about this later). You could also buy now some liquid all-around fertilizer (or other food depending on your plants’ needs), which you will give them during their growing time (spring – autumn, exact months depend on the plant, again).

6. Preparation. Wash the pots in warm water, with some disinfecting washing agent. Put new clay pots in water for twenty-four hours and old clay pots for a couple of hours before planting. Dry clay pot would absorb all moisture from soil and leave the plant thirsty. Water well the plants you are going to repot – you can put the plants in their pots in a basin filled with room-temperature water for a couple of hours. Break the extra clay pot into small pieces (not too small).

7. H-Hour. Pick a place which you cover well or can easily clean out afterwards – it is going to be messy. Get the pots, soils, plants and other tools which you think you’ll need, and cover yourself. For the plants which don’t need repotting you can do topdressing – remove carefully the top 2 or 3 inches (5 or 7,5 cm) of soil and replace with fresh mix. Do this every other year or so. For the plants which need repotting: Turn the plant upside down and remove the plant from the pot, by holding the plant between your fingers and knocking the lip of the pot against some solid object so that the rootball will come out, if possible. If not, you can try to push with a stick through a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot to get the rootball out. Disturb the root system so that roots are not in a tight rootball – this will help to speed growth and branching of new roots. You can cut away any large coils of roots that may have grown around the bottom of the pot or score the rootball vertically with a sharp knife in several places, cutting into the rootball about an inch as you slice from top to bottom. Now the old pot may fit again, but wash it carefully before replanting.

8. In action. Now you need the small pieces of a clay pot. Place one piece over the drainage hole in the bottom of the new pot to prevent soil from washing out. Do not add a layer of clay pieces or rocks because this slows water movement through the pot. Pour fresh potting mix into the bottom of the pot and plant the plant until the soil is even with the top of the plant’s rootball and about 1/2 – 1 inch (1,5 – 2,5 cm) below the rim of the pot. The roots need oxygen so don’t pack the soil to firm or settle it, just gently press the soil with your fingers.

9. Aftermath. Water the plant well so that excess water drains out of the pot. Place the plant in a warm place in good, filtered light out of any direct sunlight for the first couple of weeks. You can remove leafs and small branches or depending on the plant cut it short. After repotting, the soil must not dry completely but you must not water the plant too much either. One watering may be sufficient for several weeks. Don’t give them fertilizer right after replanting – read about fertilizing from the cover of the fertilizer packet and the instructions for each plant. Stand back and watch the plant grow!

10. For the future. It is good to let the soil dry down a little between watering, because the roots need oxygen. Make sure with your finger that the surface of the soil is dry before watering. In winter water plants once in one to three weeks, it depends on the plant how often it needs water. Empty any drainage water from the outside container after each watering – only very few plants can stand excess wetness. Never let a plant stand in water for more than a few hours or it will die (basically, drown). Spraying water on the leaves decreases evaporating – you can wipe down the leaves with a moist towel or cloth to remove dust.

Happy times with your plants!

Sources:
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1458.htm
http://www.plant-care.com/repotting-house-plants.html
http://www.portlandnursery.com/tips/tips_february.shtml
https://www.mainio.net/print.asp?path=1;1132;1133;5563;5563;9712

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